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MODERNIST JEWELRY, 1930-1960
The Wearable Art Movement

FORM & FUNCTION
American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970
 
 
From time to time, we are able to offer special collections of museum quality jewelry.  These are pieces that meet certain specifications of design, rarity and quality. 

To use this page, please click on the "descriptions" link for descriptions and more photographs.  Each row of five pieces has it's own page. For inquiries, please email marbeth1@aol.com

If you wish to see only gold jewelry, please visit moderngoldjewelry.html

(You can click on the pictures below to enlarge and please see further photographs and descriptions on the descriptions pages)
 

J A C K   N U T T I N G  (1920 - 1997)
We are very proud to present this collection of jewelry by mid 20th century San Francisco artist, Jack Nutting. It is the first time any of the pieces have been offered in the marketplace.  Nutting was a member of the the Metal Arts Guild of San Francisco, alongside Margaret DePatta, merry renk, Peter Macchiarini and Richard Gompf.  His jewelry designs are beautiful, classically modern, and wearable.  For a more complete biography of Nutting, please read, "A Classic Man in a Modern Idiom" by Sheila Pamfilloff, MODERN SILVER magazine, 2013.

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H A R R Y   B E R T O I A  (1915 - 1978)
 
Harry Bertoia is considered one of the foremost artist/designers of the mid 20th century. His work in sculpture, jewelry, and furniture is highly valued and widely collected.  He attended Cranbrook Academy of Art in the 1930s where he was influenced by modernists such as Gropius, Saarinen, and Ray and Charles Eames.  Bertoia later opened Cranbrook's metalworking shop where he taught until 1943.  More biographical information about Bertoia and photographs of his work can be found in my book,  Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970. 
 


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M A R Y   K R E T S I N G E R   (1915 - 2001)

 
This collection was created by Mary Kretsinger over a period of forty years for her dear friend and mentor, Josephine Wallace.  The two women corresponded about the process often, and challenged each other with the kind of creative energy that produces great art.

The collection was exhibited at The Wichita Center for the Arts from November 12, 2008 to January 4, 2009.

This collection has never before been offered for sale.  It consists of over twenty handmade pieces of jewelry by Mary Kretsinger in gold, silver, brass, ivory, and enamels.  Each ingeniously designed piece is a one-of-a-kind work of art. The excellent quality and magnificent craftsmanship of this jewelry rivals anything I've seen before.

Kansas native, Mary Kretsinger (1915-2001) was on one of the most respected, experimental enamellists of her generation.  She received a master's degree in art history and design at the State University of Iowa and then continued her art studies at Columbia University in New York and at the Craft Student's League with Adda Husted-Andersen. 

By the 1950s, she was already an established member of the American modernist crafts movement.  She exhibited in 1955 in the Walker Art Center's Contemporary Jewelry Exhibit on Paper.  Throughout her career she continued to exhibit, winning many awards and receiving invitations to exhibit in over eighty museum and gallery shows.

After teaching art in elementary schools, intermediate schools and colleges in Arizona, Iowa, and Kansas, she became an Associate Professor of crafts and design at Kansas State Teachers College (now Emporia State University).  In the 1960s she became a full time artist and became successful through gallery representation, patrons, and commissioned work. 

"Her earliest jewelry was primarily done in brass, formatted in ribbons of metal in maze-like configurations with jagged edges, or flat metal pieces that were hammered, gouged and fused, creating rugged moonscape-like surfaces. Later she tamed some of the wildness with more subtle nuances, preferring to work in fine silver and 18k or 24k gold."

She was a master enamellist, especially in the technique of cloisonné.  "Her colors are rich and powerful....She used jewel-toned enamels in small irregular shapes, floating independently in luminous backgrounds of silver-gray, gold or pearl white....."

Kretsinger's jewelry "reflects a playful wit, containing surprise elements in the design; pendants, bracelet and rings may have double and triple hinges, often hiding some clever treatment on the back surface or may have convertible parts and removable pieces that serve dual purposes. " 

(From Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 by Marbeth Schon, biography of Mary Kretsinger by Sheila Pamfiloff)
 


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W I N F I E L D    F I N E   A R T  I N  J E W E L R Y
 

I'm very pleased to present a collection of rare jewelry by Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry, a gallery/workshop located in Greenwich Village during the 1940s.  Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry was the brainchild of Armand Winfield (1919 - 2009), who developed one of the first commercial, mass production embedding processes using crystal clear acrylics.  All the pieces in the collection were made between 1946-1948.

Art students from New York City's prestigious Cooper Union were brought together to produce original signed miniature works of art which were encased in plastics and sold as jewelry.  The jewelry became very popular and feature stories about Winfield Fine Art appeared in a 1947 issue of Cosmopolitan, the New Yorker, Plastics Magazine, the Newark Evening News, the Village Chatter, and the European and Australian press.  Bert Parks interviewed Armand Winfield on radio and an article about the jewelry appeared in Vogue Magazine. The business began in 1946 and closed in 1948.

Twenty-one pieces of Mr. Winfield's work were archived into the Smithsonian Institution's National Design Museum in 2000 and his jewelry and a photograph of him are displayed at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. See: "Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry, a fusion of art and scientific discovery," MODERN SILVER magazine, February/March, 2003. www.modernsilver.com/winfieldfineart.htm 

You can read more about Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry in my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970

 


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W I N F R E D   C L A R K   S H A W  (1921 - 1994)

All the pieces below were handmade by Winifred Clark Shaw and are from one single collection.

Winifred Clark Shaw attended Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan where, in 1953, she received a Master of Fine Arts degree with a major in metalsmithing and a minor in weaving.  Her large body of work demonstrates her refined sense of color and material in both linear and three-dimensional design.  Of particular interest are her pieces that combine original weavings with metals. 

Shaw participated in many important national mid-20th century exhibits including Midwest Designer Craftsmen (1954), The Chicago Art Institute; American Jewelry Today (1963), Everhart Museum, Scranton, Pennsylvania; Craftsmen of the Eastern States (1963), Worcester, Massachusetts; Jewelry 64 (1964), State University College, Plattsburgh, New York;  Decorative Arts Exhibition (1964), Wichita, Kansas; as well as many juried exhibitions in New Hampshire and a retrospective exhibit at the University of New Hampshire in 1987.

Her work was also included in the League of New Hampshire exhibit at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

Winifred Clark Shaw taught jewelry making and weaving at the University of New Hampshire for thirty-three years beginning in 1954. 

Source: Win's Best: The Jewelry and Weaving of Winifred Clark Shaw, The University of New Hampshire, 1987

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M A R Y   R E N K   (b. 1921)
 

This piece by merry renk is a rare and exquisite 14k yellow gold wedding crown with thirty-five Australian opals titled "James Love Peacock"

merry renk (one of my very favorite American studio jewelers) has played a very important role in the American studio jewelry movement since the 1950s. In the late 1940s, she studied with Laszlo Maholy-Nagy in Chicago, where she opened a gallery called "750 Studio." She began working with wire, forming simple shapes into designs for jewelry.

In 1948, she moved to California where she worked full time making jewelry. She is well-known for work in enamels and interlocking forms.  In 1974, renk received a National Endowment of the Arts Craftsmen Award for her work with plique-a-jour enameling. She had solo exhibitions at the San Francisco Museum of Art in 1954, The M.H. De Young Memorial Museum in San Francisco in 1971, The Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of History and Technology, Washington D.C. in 1971, and a retrospective at the California Crafts Museum in Palo Alto in 1981.

More information about merry renk and photographs of her work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry,1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and her work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

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A N T O N I O   P I N E D A
  ( 1919 - 2009
 
Antonio Pineda was a master silversmith--one of the finest to emerge from the Mexican Silver Renaissance of the 20th Century.  The best way to tell his story is through these fine interviews at MODERN SILVER magazine:

http://www.modernsilver.com/antoniointerview.html

http://www.modernsilver.com/Antoniointaxco.htm

 

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W I L L I A M   S P R A T L I N G
  (1900 - 1967)
 
"William Spratling has been called by many 'a Renaissance Man.' Throughout Mexico he is acknowledged as "The Father of Mexican Silver." Certainly the town of Taxco and its economy would be vastly different without the initiative and creativity of this man. He complemented its valuable historic past with a new vitality and spirit which recognized the importance of the indigenous culture. The artistic and economic foundation he established continues to flourish today."  (This is taken from a biography of William Spratling by Phyllis Goddard.  Please see the whole biography at http://www.spratlingsilver.com/spratling.htm)

Also read:  http://www.modernsilver.com/Williamspratlinghallmarks.htm

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Nutting 1 Nutting 2 Nutting 3 Nutting 4 Nutting 5        
                 
Bertoia                
 
Winston                
 
Kretsinger 1   Kretsinger 2 Kretsinger 3 Kretsinger 4 Kretsinger 5 Kretsinger 6 Kretsinger 7 Kretsinger 8

Kretsinger 9

 
Winfield 1 Winfield 2 Winfield 3 Winfield 4 Winfield 5 Winfield 6 Winfield 7    
 
Shaw 1   Shaw 2 Shaw 3 Shaw 4 Shaw 5 Shaw 6      
 

renk

 
Pineda
 
Spratling
 
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Copyright ©  M. Schon