Earl Pardon (1926-1991) was first and foremost an artist who transferred ideas back and forth between the fine and plastic arts and was involved with both large-scale sculpture and jewelry, joining his love of painting and metalsmithing through his colorful enamel work.

Pardon attended Memphis Academy of Arts in 1951 and received a M.F.A. in painting from Syracuse University.  His was recognized early-on for his work in jewelry; he received a scholarship to the 4th National Silversmith's Conference sponsored by Handy and Harman, and his work was included in exhibits throughout the United States including American Jewelry and Related Objects, a traveling exhibit sponsored by the Smithsonian in 1955.

Throughout his long career, which included designing for Towle Silvermiths, teaching art and metalsmithing in university settings, and taking part in numerous, prestigious exhibits, Pardon was recognized as one of the most important artist/jewelers of his time. 

His work is featured in every major book on American mid 20th century studio jewelry.  Biographies of Earl Pardon and photographs of his work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

A great example of the work of Earl Pardon; large, sterling and 18K gold pin with enamels and faceted stones; enameling has a wonderful, whimsical abstract design; slightly over 3-1/2" long x 1-3/8" wide (at the widest section);  three faceted stones--two blue and one deep pink; fine condition except for two of the small bottom small plaques which are missing about half of their enamels; this can probably be easily repaired.

$2,500.00 (item #VK001)

Swedish-born Olaf Skoogfors thought of his jewelry as sculpture that could stand alone as art. He had a studio in Philadelphia,and taught at the Philadelphia College of Art. He had a distinguished career in metalsmithing and is widely recognized for his work which is in the permanent collection of many museums in the US, Canada, and Europe.  He died in 1975 at the age of 45. (from my books, Modernist Jewerly, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970.

$660.00 (item #HPM007)

Ronald Hayes Pearson (d. 1977) is known for his clean modernist designs in silver, bronze and gold.  He studied metalsmithing at the School for American Craftsmen under Philip Morton in the late 1940s.  In the 1950s, along with silversmith Jack Prip and woodworker Tage Frid, Pearson opened Shop One.  Though Pearson never "joined academia" he taught classes at schools such as Haystack and Black Mountain College.  Pearson supported himself, his entire life, as a full time craftsman.  His work was included in many prestigious exhibits and won many grants, prizes and awards throughout his lifetime.

Information about Ronald Pearson and photographs of his work can be found in both of my books: Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970  and Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

Ronald Hayes Pearson handmade sterling cufflinks, c. 1950s-60s; size about 1" x 5/8"; marked: "RH PEARSON;" fine condition.

$260.00 (item #SMMJ002)  

$395.00 (item #YL002)  

Ed Wiener (1918-1991) was one of the most well-loved and respected modernist jewelers of his day. Though almost entirely self-taught, he possessed a magnificent appreciation of form, line, and color together with an amazing ability to uniquely apply the ideas and principles of modernism to his life's work.

His work is featured in every major book on American mid 20th century studio jewelry.  Biographies of Ed Wiener and photographs of his work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.  Please see MODERN SILVER magazine archives:
www.modernsilver.com/Americanmodernistjewelry.htm

Beautiful, organic, handmade 14K gold ring with three moonstone spheres; attributed to Ed Wiener--from a family who collected Ed Wiener jewelry in the 1950s; about size 7; crown with moonstones is about 3/4" high x 1" across; fine condition; marked: 14K.

$1,250.00  (item #JP002)NEW!

Exquisite, one-of-a-kind, 18K gold ring by Ed Wiener with a rare Byzantine coin; purchased around 1968 from Ed Wiener in New York; about size 7-1/2; gold-work on this ring is typical of Wiener's textured surfaces from the late 1960s; top is approximately 1" diameter; ring is marked: "18K, EW;" excellent condition; coin has minor planchet cracks typical for coins of this age--this does not diminish its value; a truly magnificent piece by a great American artist/jeweler.

SOLD (item #MGE001)

Exquisite gold dancer pin by Ed Wiener, c. late 1960s; about 2" x 1-1/2"; though unsigned, the piece is in keeping with Ed Wiener's particular gold work of the late 1960s; piece tests as 18K gold, but has no marks; blue stone is a sapphire; small chip on the stone under one of the prongs, otherwise fine condition.  This piece is from the collection of a woman who purchased pieces directly from Ed Wiener in New York in the 1950s and 1960s.

$1,950.00 (item #JP003) NEW!

A pair of mid 20th century sterling earrings with blue stones attributed to Ed Wiener--from a family who collected Ed Wiener jewelry in the 1950s; each is about 1-1/2" long; screwbacks; no marks; fine condition.

A modernist sterling ring with pearl attributed to Ed Wiener, c. 1954-55, from a family who collected Ed Wiener jewelry in the 1950s ( A very similar ring by Ed Wiener is pictured in "Jewelry by Ed Wiener" the catalog from the retrospective exhibition of Wiener's work held at the Fifty/50 Gallery in New York in 1989, page 69.); about size 5-1/2; crown is about 7/8" x 3/8"; no marks; fine condition.

Ed Wiener sterling pin and earrings set with pearls; the pin is about 1-3/4" x 7/8" and the screwback earrings are about 1" x 1/2", each piece is marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING;" offered directly from the original owner who purchased them from Ed Wiener in the mid 1950s; light surface wear, otherwise fine condition with oxidation intact. 

SOLD (item #JP006) NEW!

Ed Wiener sterling star pin, this is the small model--very nice at about 1-1/2" x 1-1/8"; comes directly from the original owner who purchased it from Ed Wiener in the mid 1950s; light surface wear, otherwise fine condition; unsigned, but I have not seen one of Wiener's star pins that was.

$250.00 (item #JP007)  NEW!

A pair of fabulous mid 20th century sterling earrings with polished pebbles, possibly by Ed Wiener--from a family who collected Ed Wiener jewelry in the 1950s; each is about 2-1/4" long, no marks; posts for pierced ears that were probably changed at one time--easy fix--no soldering necessary.

A great pair or mid 20th century sterling earrings with hanging pendants; screwbacks; attributed to Ed Wiener--from a family who collected Ed Wiener jewelry in the 1950s; each is about 2" long x slightly larger than 1/4" wide; marked: "STERLING;" fine condition.

A wonderful little Ed Wiener sterling and ebony pin; about 1" x 5/8";  comes directly from the original owner who purchased it from Ed Wiener in the mid 1950s; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING; " fine condition.

$350.00  (item #JP010) NEW!

Large, sterling pin with amethyst by Ed Wiener, c. 1949; about 2-1/2" x 2"; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING;" fine condition with good patina.

A very similar piece is pictured in Messengers of Modernism, American Studio Jewelry, 1940 - 1960, by Toni Greenbaum, on page 144.

SOLD (item #HG006)

Ed Wiener sterling pin with moonstone; approximately 2" x 1-1/4" (this is not a tiny pin); c. 1950s, pictured in Ed Wiener's catalog, "Jewelry designed and handwrought by Ed Wiener, Arts & Ends Studio" seen in my book Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement, p. 62; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING;" fine condition.

 SOLD (item #M0263)

Ed Wiener sterling hammered square spiral pin and stick pin, c. 1948-1950 (a favorite Ed Wiener design); pin is about 2" square, stick pin is approximately 2-1/4" long, spiral about 3/4" square; large pin is picture in Jewelry by Ed Wiener, Retrospective Exhibition, Fifty/50 Gallery, 1989, p. 14 and Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement, p. 65; large pin is marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING"; fine condition.

$395.00 (item #M0264)

A great early pair of Ed Wiener sterling and pearl screwback earrings, c. 1950s; each is about 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"; marked "IENER, STERLING;" great patina, fine condition.

$675.00 (item #M0234)

Rare Ed Wiener sterling cuff, c. 1947; pictured in Jewelry by Ed Wiener, Retrospective Exhibition, Fifty/50 Gallery, 1989, p. 11, Structure & Ornament, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1960, Fifty/50 Gallery, 1989, #33, and Ed Wiener's Arts and Ends, by Toni Lesser Wolf, Metalsmith, 1988;  approximately 1-3/8" wide (at the widest point), inside diameter about 2-1/4"; fits small wrist; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING"; great patina, fine condition.

SOLD  (item #M0265)

Ed Wiener sterling earrings with cat's eye agates; each is approximately 1-7/8" x 1-1/2"; clips; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING"; the design of these earrings is like the "myriad associations brooch on page 63 of my book Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement; fine condition.

$595.00 (item #M0266)

Ed Wiener early hammered pin, c. 1955; pictured in Jewelry by Ed Wiener, Retrospective Exhibition, Fifty/50 Gallery, 1989, p. 29; approximately 3" x 2-1/2"; marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING"; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0267)

Ed Wiener sterling mobile earrings with pearls; each approximately 2-1/2" long; fabulous design--pendants move freely on twisted wires; posts for pierced ears; pictured in Jewelry by Ed Wiener, Retrospective Exhibition, Fifty/50 Gallery, 1989, #15, marked: "ED. WIENER, STERLING"; fine condition.

$595.00 (item #M0268)

SOLD (item #M1040)

Bob Winston  (1915-2003) was one of the first jewelers to experiment with the lost-wax method of casting by centrifuge. In 1942 he began teaching at the California College of Arts and Crafts in Oakland where the process became an integral part of his program, influencing jewelers such as Irena Brynner, Robert Dhaemers and others.

In 1959 Winston left the California College of Arts and Crafts and moved to Arizona in order to concentrate on his own career as a designer/craftsmen, though he did teach in the Extended Education Department at one of Arizona's three universities. In 1970 he wrote a text book on the lost wax casting technique titled Castaway.

Winston's cast "jewelry designs are fluid, highly sculptural and textured forms that appear to carved and molded directly in metal. Each piece is unique; he never cast in multiples."

As well as exhibiting at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis in 1948 and 1955, his work was exhibited at the Seligman Gallery in New York City and the Raymond and Raymond Gallery in San Francisco. (taken from my book, Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, p.225)

His work is an integral part of the best collections of American modernist jewelry from the mid 20th century and has been shown in major jewelry exhibits.

Beautiful gold abstract cast ring by Bob Winston with black lindy star sapphire; about size 6-1/2; top is about 1-1/4" x 1"; This piece is fresh to the market. It was made for a friend and student of Winston in the 1960s and will come with a letter of provenance.

$1,500.00  (item #M0261)

Extremely rare, stunning, highly three-dimensional Bob Winston cast gold pendant with applied blue-green patina; about 4" x 2-3/4" x 1/2" high (at the highest point); weighs approximately 50.9 grams; fine condition. This amazing piece of wearable sculpture is fresh to the market. It was made for a friend and student of Winston in the 1960s and will come with a letter of provenance.

$1,800.00  (item #M0260)

Rumanian-born, American studio jeweler Paul Lobel (1899 - 1983) was also a sculptor and designer of glass, furniture and silver hollowware. He had a studio/shop in New York's Greenwich Village in the 1940s and 50s. His work has been included in many museum exhibitions and he was at the forefront of the American Modernist studio jewelry movement. 

Biographies of Paul Lobel and photographs of his work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.  Please see MODERN SILVER magazine archives:
www.modernsilver.com/Americanmodernistjewelry.htm

PAUL LOBEL STERLING EARRINGS

A great pair of sterling screwback earrings by Paul Lobel, c. 1950s; about 1-1/2" long x 3/4" wide; marked: "Lobel Sterling;" nice patina; light surface wear, fine condition.

PAUL LOBEL GEOMETRIC STERLING  EARRINGS

Geometric, Paul Lobel sterling screwback earrings; about 2-1/4" x 7/8"; marked: "LOBEL, STERLING, great patina, a bit of surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

PAUL LOBEL BIOMORPHIC STERLING EARRINGS

Paul Lobel biomorphic, sterling screwback earrings; about 1-3/4" long x 1/2" wide; marked: "LOBEL, STERLING;" great patina, fine condition.

PAUL LOBEL STERLING RING

An outstanding sterling ring by Paul Lobel, c. 1950s; great mid 20th century design, reminiscent of the work of his contemporaries, Sam Kramer and Art Smith; band is also beautifully designed; ring is about size 5; the top sits up about 1-1/8" from the band; great patina; fine condition; marked :"LOBEL, STERLING;" about size 5; marked: "LOBEL STERLING;" light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

Paul Lobel handmade sterling cuff, c. 1950's; tapers from about 2-1/8" wide to 5/8" wide; inside diameter approximately 2-3/8"; marked: "LOBEL, STERLING;" fine condition.

$795.00 (item #M0281)

Paul Lobel cufflinks; handmade figure-eight link back; approximately 5/8" X 5/8"; marked: "LOBEL, STERLING;" slight surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

$325.00 (item #MS-M0365)

Esther Lewittes was a Los Angeles, California studio jeweler who worked in the mid 20th Century modernist style. Her work was included in the exhibition: "Structure and Ornament, American Modernist Jewelry 1940-1960" at the Fifty-50 Gallery, New York, 1984.  Her work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and her work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008. See American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, MODERN SILVER magazine, Winter, 2008-2009.

A sleek, elegant pair of Esther Lewittes sterling and ebony cufflinks; about 1" x 3/4"; signed: "Lewittes, STERLING;" fine condition.

$335.00 (item #BR004)

A  beautiful necklace by mid 20th century California jeweler, Esther Lewittes; sterling with amethyst beads; about 16" long; marked: "LEWITTES" and "STER;" fine condition.

SOLD (item #HPM003)

Ed Levin, 1921-2008 was a successful artist/jeweler who began creating jewelry in the late 1940s in New York City. In 1950, he founded Ed Levin Jewelry in New York and, in 1953, moved to Shaftsbury, Vermont, and later, in 1964, moved his workshop to Bennington, Vermont where he opened a retail shop. In 1968, he moved his wholesale business to Cambridge, New York where he used production methods to create his jewelry. His work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 .

Please see  http://www.modernsilver.com/edlevintribute.htm

A great, mid 20th century hammered and chased, sterling fish pin by Ed Levin; about 2-1/2" x 3/4"; marked: "LEVIN, STERLING, BENN. VT." fine condition.

$175.00 (item #SMM020)

Great looking Ed Levin handmade ring; I believe it is early work; sterling with gold wash (some of the gold wash is worn); about size 9 and approximately 1/2" wide; marked: "LEVIN" (in block letters), STERLING"; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0175)

An early pair of great looking Ed Levin sterling hammered earrings; screwbacks; each is about 2-3/4" long; circles are each approximately 1" diameter;  marked: "LEVIN (in block letters), STERLING;" nice old patina, fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0231)

Great cut-out biomorphic sterling pin with copper pendant by Sam Kramer, c. 1940's-50's; wonderful weight, patina and handmade quality; approximately 2-1/4" x 1-1/2"; marked with Kramer's mushroom stamp, "STERLING;" light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

A great pair of Sam Kramer sterling amoeboid cufflinks, c. 1940s-50s; about 1-1/4" x 3/4"; stamped with Kramer mushroom mark and: "STERLING;" fine condition.

This pair of cufflinks is pictured in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement on page 31.

$1,035.00 (item #BR002)

Substantial  Sam Kramer sterling cufflinks, c. 1940s-50s; layered biomorphic, three-dimensional design; about 1" x 7/8"; stamped with Kramer's mushroom stamp; fine condition.

$1,080.00 (item #BR003)

A great, early surrealist Sam Kramer brooch; sterling with copper and agate; purchased directly from Sam Kramer in the 1940s in Greenwich Village; approximately 1-1/2" square; marked with Kramer's mushroom mark and "STERLING;" light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

SOLD (item #NM001)

Great surrealistic suite by Sam Kramer; sterling brooch and earrings with attached pendants; brooch is approximately 2-1/2" x  2", clip-back earrings are each about 1-1/4" x 3/4"; each piece is marked "STERLING" and Kramer's lobed mushroom mark within a circle; nice patina; fine condition.

$1,495.00 (item #M712)

Great surrealistic Sam Kramer-like three-dimensional sterling brooch; about 2-/2" long x 1-1/4"; marked with indelible marker on back: "made by P. H. B. 1948; nice patina, some surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

$265.00 (item #HPM001)

Hurst Kingsbury ( Joan Hurst and Jill Kingsbury) were two exceptional woman designers who created modernist jewelry in New York City in the 1940s and 1950s.  Their work was usually constructed from cut, biomorphic shapes.  Joan Hurst was a graduate of the Art Students League and Jill Kingsbury was influenced by the art of theatre and dance.  Their pieces were always well designed and are of good quality.  They are also rare and hard to find.

Their work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

Large sterling cuff by mid 20th century jewelers Joan Hurst and Jill Kingsbury; probably made for the upper arm; about 9-1/2" around with an opening of about 1"; inside diameter about 3-3/8"; about 1-3/16" wide; marked: "HURST KINGSBURY, STERLING;" nice patina; fine condition.

$550.00 (item #SMM010)NEW!

His work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

HENRY STEIG STERLING FISH BROOCH

A great design by Henry Steig; streamlined, mid 20th century, sterling fish brooch; about 3-1/2" long; marked: "STEIG, STERLING;" some very light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

Biographies of Henry Steig and photographs of his work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry in America, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

$395.00 (item #M0304)

A charming pair of playful fish earrings by Henry Steig; each is about 1-1/16" long x 1/2" wide; marked: "STEIG, STERLING;" light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

Sterling ring by Henry Steig; about size 6; great quality and design; band varies from about about 1/2" at the front to 1/4" at the back, it is also about 1/16" thick; marked: "HENRY STEIG, STERLING;" fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0155)

Elsa Freund (1912- 2001) was a mostly self-taught jeweler. She was born in Branson, Missouri where she was influenced by the natural beauty of the Ozarks. In the 1940s, after teaching school and working at odd jobs, she started making jewelry.  Her "stones" were made by firing clay with pulverized bits of glass. Freund was an "intuitive modernist" who, though she had not seen the work of other modernist jewelers, wrapped her stones in free-form designs that are reminiscent of the work of New York jeweler, Sam Kramer. In 1949, Freund moved to Florida where she began placing her work in shops in Fort Lauderdale, Sarasota and St. Amand's Key.  Later, she also sold her work at America House in New York. 

Freund became a major figure in the studio jewelry movement of the mid-20th century and her work is in the permanent collections of many museums throughout the U.S. and abroad. Her work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

A beautiful pendant by Elsa Freund; rare black "elsaramic stone" wrapped in sterling wire; about 2-1/8" x 1-3/4"; marked: "Elsa" on reverse.

Peter Macchiarini (1909 - 2001) is considered one of the pioneers of American modernist studio jewelry.  His studio/gallery was in the North Beach section of San Francisco where, beginning in the 1930s, he handcrafted unique works of art including sculpture and jewelry. Margaret De Patta was a close friend and, together with other "pioneers" of this period, they started the San Francisco Metal Arts Guild. 

Please read more about Peter Macchiarini in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 .  His  work was a major part of the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008. See American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, MODERN SILVER magazine, Winter, 2008-2009. 

Also see Macchiarini on Macchiarini, one of the first and still one of the best articles from MODERN SILVER magazine, June - July, 2000.
 

Rare Peter Macchiarini sterling mask pendant, signed P. Macchiarini and dated 1947, 1-5/8" x 7/8"; according to Daniel Macchiarini, these pieces were among Peter Macchiarini's first in solid metal; though the size is small, the weight gives the piece presence as a pendant for either a man or woman; great patina, fine condition.

$3,250.00 (item #M0270) (both this piece and the one below can be purchased for $4,000.00)

Rare Peter Macchiarini sterling earring (only one). Very very early!  Possibly 1930s--a transition piece from wood carving to silver, 5/8" x 3/8;" great surface and patina, fine condtion.

$850.00 (item #M0270B) (Both this piece and the one above can be purchased for $4,000.00.)

Fabulous classic Peter Macchiarini sterling, brass and copper ring; about size 6; diameter of top circle is approximately 3/4"; marked: "MACC;" fine condition.

SOLD 

Daniel Macchiarini is one of my favorite jewelers. He handcrafts unique pieces in his studio/gallery on Grant Avenue in San Francisco's North Beach area. Like his father before him, each piece is one-of-a-kind and he adheres to the traditions of maintaining a studio where customers can participate in intellectual conversation while watching the pieces being made.  There is much more about Daniel Macchiarini in my latest book, Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 .  His  work was a major part of the exhibit "The Modernist Movement and Beyond: The Works of Peter Macchiarini and Daniel Macchiarini, Earl Pardon and Tod Pardon."  Pleae see: http://www.modernsilver.com/Americanmodernistjewelry.htm

See also Macchiarini on Macchiarini, one of the first and still one of the best articles from MODERN SILVER magazine, June - July, 2000.

I am including Daniel and his daughter Emma on this page because of their continuing exploration of the work begun by Peter Macchiarini.

Great little mixed metals dot ring by Daniel Macchiarini; sterling, gold, ivory copper and ebony; about size 5; marked: "MACC;" fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0203)

Daniel Macchiarini dot ring; sterling, copper, onyx and ivory; about size 12; fine condition

$750.00 (item #M0245)

Daniel Macchiarini dot ring with square back; great design; sterling, copper, onyx and ivory; about size 9-3/4; fine condition.

$750.00 (item #M0246)

Great design, sterling, ivory and ebony "half dot" ring by Emma Macchiarini; about size 9; top is approximately 7/8" x 3/8" band is approximately 3/8" wide at the front; marked: "EMM"; fine condition.

$650.00 (item #M0247)

Sterling and ivory "bow" ring by Emma Macchiarini; about size 8; band is approximately 3/8" wide at the front; marked: "EMM"; fine condition.

$650.00 m #M0248)

A wonderful multi-layered pod brooch by Daniel Macchiarini; bronze, copper, and nickel silver with black pearl; approximately 3-1/4" long x 1-5/8" wide; marked: "MACCHIARINI;" excellent condition.

"The exploration of form" was the never-ending journey that Peter Macchiarini began in the 1930s. His experiments with the exploration of depth were represented in multi-layered creations he called "Pods."  Daniel Macchiarini continues to create new, exciting versions of this pod form. (information from my book  Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, pg. 36.)

$850.00 (item #M728)

Magnificent elliptical, curved dot ring by Daniel Macchiarini; sterling, ebony, copper, and ivory; band is approximately 1/2" wide at the front; ring is about size 9-3/4; marked: "MACC"; excellent condition.

SOLD (item #M891)

Daniel Macchiarini mixed metals reversible brooch; sterling silver, brass, copper, onyx, ebony and ivory; approximately 4-1/2 x 1"; marked: "MACCHIARINI;" fine condition. 

This brooch was shown in the recent exhibition at St. Francis University in Fort Wayne Indiana, "The Modernist Movement and Beyond: The Works of Peter Macchiarini and Daniel Macchiarini, Earl Pardon and Tod Pardon." see: http://www.modernsilver.com/Americanmodernistjewelry.htm

$1,725.00 (item #M0294)

Daniel Macchiarini silver, copper, brass, ebony and ivory handmade bangle; approximately 2-3/4" diameter; marked: "MACC;" fine condition.

$495.00 (item #M0201)

Allan Adler (1916-2002) was a master silversmith who worked in the Arts and Crafts tradition, but expressed himself in the simple, clean lines of modernism.  He had a shop on Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles, California and became popular among the rich and famous of Hollywood.

His work is featured in my book, Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970

Beautiful Allan Alder sterling cufflinks with enamel ladybugs; about 1" diameter; signed: "ALLAN ADLER, STERLING;" fine condition.

SOLD (item #BR005)

Art Smith (1917-1982) was a New York silversmith who's African American heritage influenced his sculptural jewelry forms.  More than any other modernist jeweler of his day, Art Smith was concerned with ornamenting the human form.  His primitive-inspired, biomorphic constructions can only be truly understood in relation to the body. "A piece of jewelry, he said, "is a whatisit? until you relate it to the body...Like line, form and color, the body is a material to work with. It is one of the basic inspirations in creating form...  Art Smith's work is featured at the Brooklyn Museum in a permanent exhibit and is in the collections of many major museums and collections.

 His work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.  See also: http://www.modernsilver.com/villagetovogue/villagetovogue.htm

Large, beautifully designed gold cufflinks with amethysts by Art Smith; each is about 1-1/8" x 7/8"; constructed in two layers so the amethyst cabochons float in between; has typical Art Smith patination on parts of the gold; findings are marked "14K" and cufflinks are marked "Art Smith" (in script); cufflinks come from a private New York collection of a couple who purchased these and other pieces directly from Smith; fine condition.

$2,850.00 (item #M1027)

An exquisite pair of gold cufflinks by Art Smith; ancient bronze Greek coins set in oxidized disks; ingeniously designed backs; each is approximately 1" diameter; marked: "Art Smith" in script; fine condition.

$2,250.00 (item #BR001)

SOLD  (item #M0359)

Twisted copper cuff by Art Smith with applied modernist design that is related to a pin that can be seen in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement, on page 74; cuff is about 7" around by 2-1/4" wide; inside diameter about 2-1/4"; signed: "Art Smith;" a little rubbing to the patina, otherwise fine condition.  This cuff is wonderful and very wearable--fits beautifully on a wrist.

$1,750.00 item #M0305)

One of my favorite designs by Art Smith; sculptural copper pin with copper balls; great size and weight; approximately 3" x 2-1/2"; marked: Art Smith" (in script); good patina, fine condition.

A very similar pin is pictured in my book, Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 on page 74.

Art Smith Copper cuff, c. 1950s; from a single collection; about 2" wide, inside diameter approximately 2-1/2"; the signature may be there and hidden beneath the heavy inside patina, but I have not been able to find it; absolutely guaranteed to be handmade by Art Smith (see other pieces below from the same collection); great patina, fine condition.

SOLD (item #HG001)

Art Smith modernist sterling pin, c. 1950s; from a single collection; about 2-1/4" x 1-3/4"; marked: "Art Smith (in script), STERLING;" good patina, fine condition.

$1,200.00 (item #HG002)

Art Smith copper and brass earrings, c. 1950s; each is about 2" long; screwbacks; a little spot on the patina on one of the earrings (see larger photograph), otherwise fine condition with original patina; marked: "Art Smith" (in script).

$1,200.00 (item #HG003)

Rare Art Smith copper mobile earrings, c. 1950s; each is about 2-1/4" long; screwbacks; great patina, fine condition; marked: "Art Smith" (in script).

SOLD  (item #HG004)

Great, large sterling modernist pin by Art Smith, c. 1950s; about 3-3/4" x 1"; marked: "Art Smith" (in script), STERLING;" great patina, fine condition.

$1,500.00 (item #HG005)

Art Smith sterling earrings, c. 1950s; each is about 1-1/2" long; screwbacks; one of the screwback findings has been replaced, fine condition with original patina; marked: "Art Smith"(in script).

$950.00 (item #HG007)

He exhibited at the 1956  "American Jewelry and Related Objects" competition in Rochester, New York where he won "Best in Class Awards" for a silver and gold pendant and a gold and ebony bracelet as well as a purchase prize for a silver bracelet. He also won awards at the 1959 Midwest Designer-Craftsmen competition and the 1958 and 1959 Minnesota State Fair Fine Arts Competitions.

He was considered to be one of the foremost designer-craftsmen in the United States during his short career and was one of twelve jewelers whose work was accepted for exhibition at the Brussels World's Fair. 

His work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

A great pair of handmade, one-of-a-kind earrings by mid 20th-Century jeweler, Christian Schmidt; ca. 1950s; each earring has an ingeniously designed center pendant of wood with drilled holes that creates a very pleasant sound when it hits the silver; each is approximately 2-1/2" long; marked: "CHRISTIAN SCHMIDT" within a rectangle, "STERLING;" fabulous patina, fine condition.

SOLD  (item #M916)

Striking modern sterling pendant in the style of and attributed to Christian Schmidt; this was found in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area where Schmidt lived and worked and, though unsigned, I feel comfortable with the attribution; about 3-1/4" x 2-1/2"; unmarked; fine condition.

$325.00 (item #KK041)

Hand-made sterling pendant by Christian Schmidt; great three-dimensional design; approximately 2-1/4" long; marked with: "CHRISTIAN SCHMIDT, STERLING;" fine condition.

$335.00  (item #M0180)

Sterling pin by Christian Schmidt; cast; three-dimensional with good weight and naturalistic relief design; approximately 3-1/4" long; marked with "CHRISTIAN SCHMIDT," stylized "S" stamp,
"STERLING;" fine condition.

$335.00  (item #M0181)

Sterling pendant by Christian Schmidt; cast; three-dimensional with good weight and relief design resembling a leaf, tree or perhaps flames; approximately 3-1/4" long; marked with "CHRISTIAN SCHMIDT," stylized "S" stamp, "STERLING;" fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0182)

Maxwell Chayat (1909 - 1982) was born in Paris, but came to the United States as a child during World War I. His work was prominent in private collections and synagogues in Syracuse. His sculpture ''The Sentinel'' stands outside Crouse College on the Syracuse University campus. His work has been shown at the Smithsonian Institution, Cooper Union, the Jewish Museum of New York and the Newark Museum.

His work is featured in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement

Wonderful, highly three-dimensional Abstract Expressionist enamel on copper by Maxwell Chayat; about 2-1/2" x 1-1/2"; marked: "CHAYAT" on pin finding; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0162)

Enamel on copper pin by Maxwell Chayat--wonderful minimalist design in exquisite colors; about 2" x 1-3/8"; marked: "CHAYAT" on the clasp; fine condition--no chips or cracks.

$195.00  (item #M0253B)

Lilyan Bachrach is a remarkable, versatile enamellist whose oeuvre includes jewelry, wall pieces, plates, bowls, mezuzahs, and switch plates. Her work flows easily between beautiful floral and abstract designs; she is equally adept at both. She has been enameling for over fifty years, studying with the "greats" such as Kenneth Bates and Doris Hall.

Since 1970 her Bachrach Art Enamels have been exhibited in museums and galleries across the United States.  Her commission work has ranged from cloisonné pins to architectural panels and religious objects.

Lilyan Bachrach is also an author; her first, very successful book on enameling was titled Enameling with Professionals. She has just published a new, expanded edition of her first book titled, Contemporary Enameliing Art & Techniques that discusses the techniques and materials for using vitreous enamels and has "how I work" chapters by over 30 enamel artists who share their secrets of working with the techniques of cloisonné, plique--a- jour, champlevé, etc. There are photographs of the work of over 55 individual contemporary enamelists.

Bachrach is also one of the featured jewelers in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement."Read Lilyan's biography at http://www.modernsilver.com/lilyanbachrach.htm

Striking abstract enamel brooch by master enamelist Lilyan Bachrach; enamel on fine silver with fine silver wires and pure gold foil; in fine silver bezel with sterling frame; approximately 2-3/4" x 2-1/8"; signed in enamel on reverse: "Bachrach"; fine condition.

Exquisite cloisonné enamel on fine silver by Lilyan Bachrach with 18K and 24K gold; approximately 2-7/8" diameter; signed: "Bachrach" on reverse; two short lines (crazing) by the silver frame on one edge; otherwise fine condition.

$690.00 (item #M1001)

Exceptional repousee enamel on fine silver pin by Lilyan Bachrach; about abstract cloisonné enamel pendant on fine silver by Lilyan Bachrach with 24K gold granulation and 18K gold bezel on sterling silver frame; about 1-1/2" x 2-3/4"; no marks, though Lilyan did sign it in ink on the back of the frame--unfortunately most is rubbed off; from artist's collection; fine condition.

Enamels by Miriam Peck are not readily available.  She is mentioned in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement on page 156. She exhibited at the Walker Art Center in 1955. She attended Western Reserve University and the Cleveland Institute of Art and created enamel jewelry in mostly abstract designs on fine silver and copper.

Wonderful, large, colorful abstract enamel on copper pin with gold accents by mid 20-century enamellist Miriam Peck; approximately 2-3/4" x 2"; signed: "Miriam Peck" in gold script on the reverse; a small chip lower right corner and some very fine radiating cracks from the corner and a chip to the enamel on the reverse upper left point that translated into fine cracks (see larger photo); enamel is stable and otherwise fine.

$250.00 (item #M935)

Philip Morton's books, Contemporary Jewelry, a Studio Handbook and Contemporary Jewelry, a Craftsman's Handbook are invaluable resources for collectors, jewelers and students who wish to learn about the history of the modern studio jewelry movement and its design principles, materials and techniques.

Morton's childhood and college days were spent in Utah.  In the 1930s he took a course in jewelry design from a WPA sponsored art project and from that time forward, he made jewelry.  His studies in contemporary art movements were done on his own.

During World War II he moved to California where his jewelry sold successfully at many of the leading shops in the San Francisco area. By 1946 he was also producing his own line of contemporary silverware and, in 1947, because of his success as a metalsmith and designer, he was invited to teach design at Alfred University at the School for American Craftsmen.  A year later he took a position with the newly formed art department at the University of Minnesota where he taught three dimensional design, jewelry making and sculpture.

In 1951 he established the first bronze foundry in any American university art program.  his own work, over the next few years was devoted to bronze sculpture and jewelry making.

Morton's work has been widely exhibited at museums in the United States and other countries.

His work is featured in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

Hand-wrought sterling pendant by Philip Morton; c. late 1950s; approximately 3" long x 2-1/4" wide; no marks, but purchased directly from Philip Morton by the owner; fine condition.

$425.00 (item #M0184)

Ingenious sterling wire earrings by Philip Morton, circa 1946; pictured in his book Contemporary Jewelry on page 150; inventive hand-made clips hold spiral pendants; pendants are approximately 1" x 1/2"; clips are 1-1/4" long; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0185)

Hand-wrought sterling earrings by Philip Morton with primitive design; approximately 1-1/2" diameter; brass clips, one of which is missing part of the clip (see larger picture on html page); marked: "P M, STERLING" (within a square); very light wear.

$315.00 (item #M0188)

Betty Cooke has been designing and creating her one-of-a-kind pieces since the 1940s. She has been widely recognized and has won many prizes for her work. She exhibited at the 1951 "Alumni Exhibition,Textiles, Ceramics, Metalwork" at the Cranbrook Academy of Art, 1955 and 1959 at the Walker Art Center, Minneapolis, and she was given a retrospective at the Maryland Institute, College of Art in 1995. I interviewed Betty Cooke at her shop in Baltimore in 2001.  You can read that interview at http://www.modernsilver.com/BETTYCOOKE.htm

She is also featured in my books, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and her work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008. See American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, MODERN SILVER magazine, Winter, 2008-2009.

It's hard to find an early piece by Betty Cooke with great provenance; this beautiful sterling and ebony necklace comes from the family who purchased it directly from Betty in the early 1960s; the patina is absolutely wonderful!  It's about 15-1/2" around (when closed); fits a small neck; each link is about 3/16" wide; marked: "COOKE, STERLING;" excellent condition.

Great, early, Betty Cooke sterling pin/pendant; very Bauhaus in design; about 2" diameter; loop for chain and pin with safety catch; marked: "Betty Cooke, STERLING;" fine condition with a lovely, soft patina; 18" sterling chain is not original, but works well with the patina of the pice.

$560.00 (item #SMM003)

Exquisite, early Betty Cooke sterling necklace; elegant design; about 16" around (fits smaller neck) ; marked: "COOKE, STERLING," some light surface wear; good patina; fine condition.

$1,800.00 (item #AB-M0367)

Great geometric, architectural ring by Betty Cooke; slightly larger than size 6 (hard to measure because of the shape of the band); top is approximately 1-1/4 (longest section) x 7/8" (across), marked: "COOKE, STERLING;" some light surface wear, good patina, fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0251)

1960 Betty Cooke sterling pin with pearl; abstract bird design; approximately 4" x 4-1/2"; inscribed: "COOKE, 1960, STERLING;" wonderful patina, fine condition.

$850.00 (item #M0232)

Sterling brooch by Betty Cook; brushed silver front and oxidized back and sides;  3-1/4" X 3"; marked ; "COOKE STERLING;" fine condition.

$495.00 (item #M0208)

Exceptional 14 K gold ring with greenish-grey stone sphere; top section is about 1/2" wide; approximately size 5-1/2; marked COOKE, 14K; fine condition.

$1,500.00 (item #M0204)

Wonderful, early sterling and brass brooch by Betty Cooke, probably c. 1950s-60s; about 2-1/4" diameter; marked: "COOKE;" fine condition.

$750.00 (item #M0241)

Carl Podzsus studied at the Kunst Akademie in Leipzig, Germany, the Art Students League (New York), the rhode Island School of Design, Pratt Institute, the Museum of Modern Art, R.C.A. Institute, and New York University, where he was Professor of Art and Art Education from 1946-1983.  In 1948 he received a fellowship to study with Baron Eric Fleming, Court Silversmith to the King of Sweden.

In 1955, he showed his jewelry at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis.  His work (mostly paintings, I believe) is in major museums throughout the United States.

Noble Smith was the pen name of Shirley Smith, an extremely talented silversmith who graduated from high school in 1946 and then attended the Boston Museum School in the early 1950s.  The design quality of her work is equal to that of some of the more well known and well respected artist/jewelers of the mid 20th century.

NOBLE SMITH STERLING & CHRYSOPRASE PIN

Great mid 20th century Noble Smith sterling pin with green stone (probably chrysoprase); about 2-1/2" x 5/8"; safety catch; marked: "NOBLE SMITH, STERLING;" some surface wear, one very tiny scratch, otherwise fine condition.

$135.00 (item #SM011) 

Doris Hall (1907 - 2000) graduated from the Cleveland Institute in 1929 and during the 1940s opened a gallery and studio in Gloucester, Massachusetts. She and her husband, Kalman Kubinyi later opened a studio/gallery in downtown Boston and lastly, a studio in Stockbridge, Massachusetts.

Hall exhibited in the Cleveland Museum of Art annual May Show throughout the 1930s.  She also exhibited at the Walker Art Center in 1948. She originated the idea of making enamel "paintings" by treating her copper (or silver) as a canvas and drawing in a dried layer of opalescent crackle to produce an oxidized line. 

This piece is pictured in my book, Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 on page 149.  More pictures of her work as well as biographical information can be found in Painting with Fire, Masters of Enameling in America by Bernard N. Jazzar and Harold B. Nelson.

Enamel "painting" on sterling plaque on velvet ribbon by Doris Hall; beautiful blue, cherry red, white and gold enamels depicting a young woman; curved plaque is about 2-1/2" x 3/4"; overall length of choker, including ribbon is about 12" (closes with a snap); fits small neck, but the ribbon could be changed for a longer one or the piece could be made into a very pretty bracelet; marked: "STERLING" and inscribed: "Designed by Doris Hall;" fine condition with no chips or cracks to the enamel.

$650.00 (item #MM003)

Ella L. Cone was a mid-20th century silversmith who worked in New York and Boston.

Sterling mid 20th century ring with three beautiful chrysoprase cabochons by Ella Cone; approximately. size 4-1/2; marked: "CONE, STERLING;" fine condition.

$250.00 (item #M0347)

Beautiful sterling ring with large lapis cabochon by Ella Cone; size about 4-1/4", band expands for larger size; nice patina; marked: "CONE, STERLING;" some light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

Ella Cone was a mid 20th century New York jeweler who also worked and had a shop in Boston. Some of her work is traditional and some is abstract.

$250.00 or $450.00 with pin below as a set (item #HC001)

Beautiful sterling pin-pendant with large lapis cabochon by Ella Cone; about 2" diameter; marked: "CONE, STERLING;" nice patina; some light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

$250.00 or $450.00 with ring above as a set (item #HC002)

Gorgeous pin/pendant by Rachel Gera, sterling with amethyst, pearl and iridescent glass; about 3-1/2" long x 2" wide; inscribed: "R. Gera (in script) and marked: "925, HAND MADE; pin with safety catch and bale for chain; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0306)

Frank Miraglia worked in New York during the mid 20th century.  He is regarded as an accomplished modernist jeweler and his work is highly collectible. His work was featured in my book Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement .
 

Great design modernist sterling earrings by Frank Miraglia, New York, circa 1950's; screwbacks; layered three-dimensional design approximately 1" x 1"; marked: "F. MIRAGILIA, N.Y. STERLING;" fine condition.

$450.00 (item #M0153)

Irena Brynner, (1917 - 2002)  was a skilled sculptor, painter, musician and, most importantly, one of the most celebrated American jewelers of the mid 20th century.  She came to the United States in 1946, to San Francisco where she first made jeweler and began showing her work at the San Francisco Open Air Art Festivals and nationally in exhibits such as  "Contemporary Jewelry" at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis in 1955.

In 1957 Brynner set up a studio and gallery in New York City where she soon became recognized through articles in major craft magazines and a one-woman exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Crafts.  When she died, in 2002 her work was in museums throughout the world including the Smithsonian, the Louvre and the Hermitage.

She is also featured in my books, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and her work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008. See American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, MODERN SILVER magazine, Winter, 2008-2009.

Stunning 18K gold ring with cabochon moonstone by Irena Brynner; about size 6-1/2; band is approximately 3/8" at the front and 1/4" at the back;  moonstone is approximately 1/4" diameter; ring is marked: "I Brynner, 18K" and initials, "IB" (in cursive); fine condition.

This ring is pictured in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement. 

SOLD (item #M0272)

Gorgeous pair of handmade earrings by Irena Brynner; sterling silver, gold, and baroque pearls; the back plaque is cut-out and the gold sections are carefully inserted and held by handmade prongs; approximately 2-1/4" x 2-5/8"; posts for pierced ears; fine condition; marked: "I. Brynner."

These earrings are pictured in my books "Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement" and "Form and Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970."

$1,250.00 (item #M0167)

Milton Cavagnaro (1913-1993) was a California jeweler whose work is distinctive in it's skillful use of silver in combination with natural materials such as wood, bone, and shell.  He made only one-of-a-kind pieces. 

He is also featured in my books, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008. See American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, MODERN SILVER magazine, Winter, 2008-2009.

Fabulous wood and sterling modernist pendant by mid 20th-century jeweler Milton Cavagnaro; excellent design, beautifully executed; about 3" x 1-3/8"; marked "CAVAGNARO" on reverse; great patina, excellent condition.

SOLD (item #M931)

Great modernist design sterling and ebony earrings by Milton Cavagnaro, c. 1950s; screwbacks; each is about 2-1/2" x 5/8"; signed: "CAVAGNARO;" fine condition.

These earrings are pictured in my upcoming museum catalog "Form and Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970."

$495.00 (item #M0148)

More information about merry renk and photographs of her work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry,1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and her work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

Exquisite 14k yellow gold wedding crown with thirty-five Australian opals by merry renk, titled "James Love Peacock"; this piece just returned from the traveling exhibit "Craft in America;" inside diameter of oval-shaped crown is about 7" (front to back) x 6-1/8" side to side; front peacock section is approximately 5-1/2" wide x 3-1/2" tall; whole piece is in fine condition and comes with original handmade pouch and box by merry renk.

About this crown, merry renk said, "In the twenty-five years, 1947-1972, I designed my jewelry following the ideas of modern constructivism and non-objective concepts.

I realized in 1972, that I needed to express other ideas concerning ecology, memories and family, using symbolic realism.  I was concerned about how we were poisoning our air and birds became a symbol.

I have always been fascinated with jewelry worn on the head and have made many hair combs.  I have walked the San Francisco zoo those years with my growing children where we often shared space with a male peacock with his tail fanned wide and dragging the ground as he stalked about for his peahen.

In 1978, I designed a comb called "Ebony Peacock" in silver, ebony and pearls.  In 1979, I made a gold comb  that I called "James Love Peacock." There was not much interest in this comb as the fashion of wearing combs at the opera, etc., was now passé.  When I made plans for a wedding crown exhibit at the Artisans Gallery in san Francisco, I moved the bird from the comb onto a circle of gold peacock feathers and I moved the name along with bird.

How did I name my crown, "James Love Peacock?" 

My desire was to honor my friend, the poet Carolyn Kizer, for her poem called "James Love Peacock."  When I was asked to send a copy of the poem to be exhibited along with the crown,  I was stunned to discover that I had a very creative memory.  I found that her poem was called "What Was in a Name" followed by "Thomas Love Peacock!"  "Thomas Love Peacock!" There was no James Love Peacock anywhere in her poem.

Nevertheless, I think it is still fair to say that a poem by Pulitzer Prize Winner Carolyn Kizer inspired the name for my wedding crown, "James Love Peacock."

Watch a video of merry renk's crowns on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCzkCy_YaDQ

(Item #M0307) Price upon request

In 1954, in an article titled “Five Contemporary Jewelers,” published in American Craft Magazine, Mary Schimpff’s jewelry was shown alongside that of Margaret De Patta, Bob Winston, Paul Miller, and Robert Von Neumann. Though not as well known within the collecting public, her work compares favorably with the best of mid-20^th century modernist jewelry. Like De Patta, Schimpff is a perfectionist and a modernist whose designs are based on the integration of form and function. Her work has been exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Brooklyn Museum of Art and is part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution.  She has won four De Beers Diamonds--International Awards, has been awarded an honorary membership in the De Beers Diamonds International Academy exhibitions, and her work has been included in the Trieniale Di Milano, Italy; The International Schmuckschau, Munich, Germany; and the Centenary in Johannesburg commemorating the discovery of South Africa's first diamond.  (Information is from my book Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement.  Se Also, Mary Schimpff-Webb, a career devoted to excellence, M0DERN SILVER magazine.)

A rare example of enameling by Mary Schimpff; great abstract design with vivid blue and green enamels; front is about 3/4" square; ring is approximately size 6-1/4; marked: "Schimpff, STERLING."

SOLD  (item #M1013

Beautiful Mary Schimpff handmade sterling and 14K gold pin and earrings set; clip earrings are each approximately 1" x 5/8", pin is about 2" x 1"; marked: "STER, 14K, Schimpff;" fine condition.

$650.00 (item #M0235)

Herman Roth studied at the Crafts Students League and the Museum of Modern Art.  He was an instructor in art metal at the 92nd Street "Y" in New York and worked in many metals, especially sterling silver.  He used ivory, ebony and enamels to accentuate his designs and showed a silver and wood shuttle pin in the Walker Art Center's Contemporary Jewelry Exhibit on Paper, issue #33, Design Quarterly, 1955. (taken from my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930 - 1960, The Wearable Art Movement, page 172.)

Great biomorphic pin by mid-twentieth century jeweler Herman Roth; approximately 3-1/2" x 1-1/2"; marked: "HERMAN ROTH, LARCHMONT. N.Y., HANDMADE, STERLING," and conjoined "HR;" light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

$350.00 (item #M0285)

Robert Dhaemers (b. 1926), was Assistant Professor in Crafts at the California College of Arts & Crafts, Oakland, California and taught for ten years at Mills College. His exhibitions at the Museum of Contemporary Crafts in New York City included "Creative Casting Thirty Craftsmen" and "Art of Personal Adornment." He also exhibited at Columbia University, New York; Addison Gallery of American Art, de Young Museum and Palace of the Legion of Honor, San Francisco; Oakland and San Francisco Art Museum; St. Paul Gallery, University of  Minnesota; University of California; University of Iowa, and numerous others.

He is a sculptor who has created over dozen large sculptural works on commission. He interprets his sculptural ideas in his jewelry, feeling that it should be seen in the round: his pendants are designed to stand alone as three-dimensional sculpture.  He works mostly in lost-wax casting and credits Bob Winston as his inspiration. He exhibited a cast sterling ring in 1955 at the Walker Art Center.

(from my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, pg. 137-38)

This pair of earrings are probably the best I've seen; handmade by Robert Dhaemers; ca. 1940s; sterling with greenish-blue quartz; screwbacks; each is approximately 1-1/2" long x 1-1/8" wide; great patina; fine condition. 

In a note sent to me by Robert Dhaemers, he speaks of the earrings:  "The earrings are some of my earliest work.  I made them when I was a student and sold them to an art student who lost one. She came back to me and asked me to make another one so I did, but she never came back to pick them up so they hung on my work bench wall since 1946 or 1947. The stones I cut and polished and are a form of quartz."

SOLD (item #M950)

Handmade bronze pendant by Robert Dhaemers, ca. 1967; "Fertility Figure"; approximately 3" x 1-3/4"; 13" braided cord; fine condition. In Dhaemer's words, "The one that is in the form of a Fertility Figure is a favorite of mine and the surface texture is my finger prints in the surface of the wax when I was forming the pendant."

SOLD  (item #M922)

Handmade bronze pendant by Robert Dhaemers, ca. 1967; approximately 3-1/4" x 1-5/8"; 24" braided cord; fine condition.

$450.00  (item #M924)

Stunning bronze necklace with ruby with forged bronze neckring by Robert Dhaemers; pendant is as beautiful on the reverse as the front so can be worn both ways; pendant is approximately 5-1/2" across dipping down 2-1/2" at the front; gorgeous red ruby; neckring is about 8" diameter (very large); excellent condition; great patina; acquired from the artist, no marks; ca. 1964; exhibited at the Museum of Contemporary Crafts "Creative Casting" in 1964.

$1,200.00 (item #M820)

Beautiful cast sterling ring with large pearl by Robert Dhaemers; top is about 1-1/16" x 3/4"; ring is about size 5; excellent condition; great patina; acquired from the artist; no marks; ca. 1970.

 $550.00 (item #M822)

"The strikingly unique art of Pal Kepenyes has been collected by such celebrities as Bob Hope, Robin Leach and Robert Stack."  He was born in Kondoros, Hungary, and began exhibiting in Budapest in 1946. His work had been shown in Paris, London, Berlin, Canada, the United States and Mexico, where he now lives. His work in museum and private collections throughout the world.

"In his miniatures or in his monumental work, he expresses the drama of the man of today: anguish, loneliness in company, desire and/or erotic experiences, trauma, myths, conscience, self-consciousness, wonder and the marvelous...ad infinitum, and all in continuous dimensions."

He works in bronze, copper, iron, gold, silver-and precious stones....."In his work, he presents past and future as mere moments in eternity." (information from http://www.bryantgalleries.com/index_files/page0077.html

A great, wearable bronze ring by Pal Kepenyes; about size 6-1/2'; sits about 1" above the finger--crown is about 1" diameter; marked: "PAL KEPENYES, MEXICO;" fine condition.

$850.00 (item #MHC001) NEW!

Highly sculptural bronze and pyrite ring by Pal Kepenyes; top is approximately 1-1/8" x 3/4"; ring is about size 6; the look of the prongs (some seem to be broken) is and integral part of Kepenyes design; marked: "Pal Kepenyes"; great patina; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M826)

Incredible, Pal Kepenyes bronze bracelet with Milagros; rare and truly fabulous; weighty, but not too heavy; about 2-1/2" - 3" wide depending on which way the Milagros hang; inside diameter crosswise 1-1/2" and lengthwise 2-1/2"; marked in script: "Pal Kepenyes;" fine condition.

$2,260.00 (item #RN-M0377)

Extraordinary bronze lion pendant (breastplate) by Pal Kepenyes; purchased directly from the artist in Acapulco in the 1960's; pendant has 58 individually attached bronze hammered bars creating the mane and lion face has resin eyes with red pupils; pendant is huge at approximately 7-1/4" x 6" and is attached to a handmade bronze hammered collar; collar is approximately 20" around; the whole piece is wonderfully detailed, wearable art; marked: "PAL KEPENYES, MEXICO;" one of the individually attached whiskers appears to be broken off, otherwise fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0275)

$1,500.00 (item #0191) HOLD

SOLD (item #0192)

$1,750.00 (item #0193)

Handmade sculptural ring by Pal Kepenyes in the style of Giacometti; brass or bronze; male and female figures holding bell which actually rings; sculpture is approximately 1 & 1/4 inches high; ring is about size 7 & 1/2; marked "PAL KEPENYES, MEXICO;" great patina; fine condition.

SOLD (item #M863)

"Roach2" is the mark and jewelry of Bill and Patsy Roach. Bill was the son of Ruth Roach (see above). Patsy's fascination with the jewelry of Ruth Roach brought her together with Bill and after their marriage in 1959 she began making jewelry, encouraged by her mother-in-law. Bill and Patsy created Roach2 (signifying their union) and began showing their beautiful, unique handmade jewelry in 1961, winning many prizes and purchase awards at the national shows in which they participated. Their work is in the permanent collection of the Mitchell Museum in Mt. Vernon, Illinois and museums in Iowa.  Please see: Roach2, A Love Story at MODERN SILVER magazine. 

Roach2 is featured in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement,

Rare, early hand-forged, fused, and oxidized sterling pendant and chain with four garnets by Bill Roach; entire length is approximately 16"; pendant is about 4-1/2" long; marked: "ROACH2, STERLING;" this has never before been on the market; fine condition.

$2,500.00  (item #M615)

Roach 2 sterling band with cut-out cat figure; about size 6-1/2-7; band is approximately 3/8" wide tapering to 1/4" at the back; marked: "ROACH 2, STERLING; fine condition.

SOLD  (item #M0253)

Absolutely stunning handmade brooch by Roach2--large and exquisitely designed and made; polished curved silver bars (about 5/16" wide) make up the intricate design; center is a large, deep, beautifully faceted amethyst; triangular-shaped rutilated quartz stones are set at each side; brooch is approximately 4-3/8" long x 1-1/2" wide; amethyst was originally part of a vintage piece of jewelry and shows some wear under magnification, otherwise excellent condition. 

This brooch is pictured in my upcoming book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, and see ROACH 2, a love story, MODERN SILVER magazine, Dec.-Jan. 2002-2003  

$1,450.00 (item #M400)

Virgil Cantini was born in Italy in 1919 and came to the US in 1930. He received his Master's Degree from the University of Pittsburgh where he became a Professor in the Henry Frick Fine Arts Department. In Time Magazine’s 1953 Poll he was named as one of the "Hundred Leaders of Tomorrow." He received numerous awards and prizes for his enamel work, many in the form of large-scale enamel panels and sculptures. (information from The Design and Creation of Jewelry by Robert von Neumann.) The earrings, below, are pictured in my book for Schiffer Publishing,  Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement.)

Beautiful enamel on copper screw back-type earrings, 1-1/2” x 1-3/4”, marked “Cantini” (in script) for Virgil Cantini.

$225.00 (item #M628)

Colorful abstract enamel on copper pin by Virgil Cantini; about 1-1/2" diameter; marked "Cantini" on reverse; fine condition with no chips or cracks to the enamel.

SOLD (item #M930)

Striking enamel pin by Virgil Cantini; beautiful black, red, green and gold enamels; approximately 2" x 7/8"; stamped: "CANTINI"; fine condition

$225.00 (item #M0151)

This is one of the best examples I've seen of jewelry by Virgil Cantini; truly beautiful enamel on sterling silver bracelet with five masked figures--definitely has a Mardis gras (carnival) look; about 7-1/2" x 1-1/2"; marked: "CANTINI" in two places and "STERLING" on the clasp; fine condition--no chips or crazing or cracks--a tiny bit of roughness on some edges that may be original to the piece.

$1,200.00 (item #MM007)

Bill Tendler was an American modernist jeweler who hand made pieces in his studio/shop in New York's Greenwich Village from 1952-1981. More information and photographs of his work are found in my book  Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, pages 82,83.

A superb example of mid-Century modern jewelry design by Bill Tendler, c.1950s, handmade, approximately 2-1/8" long x 3/4" wide, safety catch, marked on reverse: "TENDLER, STERLING", excellent condition.

SOLD (item #829)

Sterling silver arrow pin by Bill Tendler; about 3" long; marked: "TENDLER, STERLING;" fine condition.

$195.00 (item #M0158)

Wonderful sterling silver snail brooch, c. 1955, by Bill Tendler, approximately 1-3/4" x 1-1/8", safety catch, marked on reverse: "TENDLER, STERLING", fine condition.

This brooch is pictured in my book, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement, on page 82.

SOLD (item #M803)

Francisco (Frank) Rebajes (1907-1990) was one of the first studio jewelers to open an actual shop in Greenwich Village. He came to New York from the Dominican Republic, arriving in New York with little over three hundred dollars.  His first pieces were hammered from tin cans and scrap metal. He rose from poverty to become a successful artist and business man with a beautiful shop on Fifth Avenue and a workshop with over a hundred artisans.  His work was included in many early exhibitions and he received a bronze medal for his work at the Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques in Paris in 1937 and a gold medal for his sculptures at the theater in the United States Pavilion at the 1939 New York World's Fair.  Later in life, he moved to Spain where he created mostly sculpture.

He is also featured in my books, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and his work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008. See American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970, MODERN SILVER magazine, Winter, 2008-2009.  See also Uncle Frank, MODERN SILVER magazine, 2005

A beautiful, Frank Rebajes handwrought, sterling and abalone ring with silver pearl; about size 8-1/2, but adjusts up or down; top is approximately 1-1/8" long; marked on interior: "STERLING, ORIGINAL HANDWROUGHT REbajES DESIGN; fine condition.

SOLD (item #SM020)

Silver (not sterling--perhaps silver plated white metal) bracelet by Francisco Rebajes, c. 1950s; six links with Picasso-like faces; about 7-1/2" long x slightly over 3/4" wide; marked: "REbajES" on each link; reverse shows some loss to the plating, but front is in fine condition.

$395.00 (item #M0237)

Very cool Rebajes silver Veronica Lake kinetic earrings; screwbacks, c. 1950s; each is approximately 1-3/4" x 1"; marked: "REbajEs;" good patina, fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0233)

Rebajes copper mask pin, c. 1950s; about 1-1/4" x 1/2", nice patina, fine condition; no marks.

$175.00 (item #M0230)

Wonderful screwback-type Rebajes copper mask earrings, c. 1950s; each 1-1/4" x 5/8"; nice patina, fine condition; no marks.

$195.00  (item #M0230)

"Orb"was founded by Otto Robert Bade in the 1950s in New Hope, Pennsylvania.  He served as Rebajes' foreman in the 1940s and 50s and purchased Rebajes' designs and machinery before Rebajes moved to Spain. (Information is from Collectible Silver Jewelry by Frank Rezazadeh.)  Information regarding Orb can also be found in my book for Schiffer Publishing Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement.

Sterling cuff with oxidation by Orb; about 1-3/8" wide; inside diameter approximately 2-3/8"; opening is about 3/4"; marked: "Orb, STERLING;" fine condition.

This is new old merchandise by Orb. It was in their stock from earlier times.

$250.00 (item #M976)

Great modernist sterling pendant by Orb; about 1-3/8" wide; inside diameter approximately 2-3/8"; opening is about 2-3/4" x 1-1/2"; 24" chain; marked: "Orb, STERLING;" fine condition.

$230.00 (item #AB-M379)

Phyllis W. Jacobs was a sculptor/jeweler who worked in the 1950s. She showed her work at the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis in 1948 and was included in Jewelry Making as an Art Expression by Kenneth Wineberger. 

Her work is included in my book, Modernist Jewelry 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement

1950's hand-made sterling earrings with with wire-threaded beads that appear to be turquoise; each is approximately 1-1/4" x 1/2"; marked: "phyllis, STERLING," and maker's mark; nice patina, fine condition.

 $325.00 (item #M0154)

Great abstract sterling mouse pin by mid 20th century studio jewelry Phyllis; about 1" x 1"; marked: "phyllis, STERLING," fine condition.

Phyllis W. Jacobs worked in California (Palo Alto) in the 1950s. She worked in clay as well as silver using mostly biomorphic shapes.

SOLD (item #M0157)

Great abstract sterling pendant with coral by mid 20th century jeweler, Phyllis; about 2" x 1-1/4"; marked: "Phyllis" and maker's mark; great patina, fine condition.

SOLD (item #M0228)

Peter Ein-hod is the signature of Johanaan Peter who, along with Hans Jean Arp and Marcel Janco established the artist's village  at Ein-Hod, Israel.  He collaborated with Arp on some jewelry pieces. His own work is esoteric in its unusually patinated silver.  He also sometimes uses smooth, colored glass.

Fabulous handmade pendant and chain by Israeli artist, Peter Ein-hod with fused texturing, applied patination, and sea glass; pendant is approximately 4-1/2" long; chain is about 25"; marked: "PETER EIN-HOD, MADE IN ISRAEL, ST 925;" fine condition.

$255.00 (item #M646)

Handmade ring by Israeli artist, Peter Ein-hod with applied patination; top section is approximately 1-3/4" x 3/4"; ring is about size 6 ( but is adjustable); marked: "PETER EIN-HOD, MADE IN ISRAEL, ST 925;" band is slightly out of round in the very back, otherwise fine condition.

SOLD (item #M982)

Frans van Nieuwenborg and Martijn Wegman have cooperated as artists and industrial designers since 1972.  Apart from their work in the plastic arts they design lamps, jewelry and other objects which are manufactured either industrially or in small quantities by the artists themselves.

The timeless nature and clear composition characteristic of their designs gave them international recognition.  Their work is exhibited in museums all over the world. They are represented in many design collections including the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. (from card enclosure with necklace)

Great, industrial design aluminum neck tube with original case and box by Dutch modernists Frans Van Nieuwenborg and Martijn Wegman, c. 1972; tube is made of two half circles that fit together tightly when closed; about 20" around the outside; inside diameter is approximately 4-3/4"; tube is signed with stylus: Frans Van Nieuwenborg/Martijn Wegman; some surface wear, otherwise fine condition with no dents.

This piece, with it's leather "envelope" is pictured in Jewelry of Our Time, Art, Ornament and Obsession by Helen W. Drutt and Peter Dormer, p. 50.

$650.00 (item #SM002) 

Oswaldo Guayasmin (1919-199) was a mater Ecuadorian painter, sculptor and jeweler. Please see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oswaldo_Guayasam%C3%ADn

Rare sterling and turquoise ring by Ecuadorian artist and jewelry maker, Oswaldo Guayasmain; about size 5-3/4; band is slightly over 12" at the front; signed: "GUAYASAMIN, 900;" fine condition.

$515.00 (item #GJ001)

Other wonderful mid 20th century jewelry

An exceptional example of mid 20th century modernist design; sterling pin fresh water pearl; sterling wire weaves in and out of a silver honey-comb; about 4-1/4" long; unmarked; though thought to be by a silversmith/potter from Atlanta; fine condition. 

$385.00 (item #MMV002)

$560.00 (item #MMV003)

STERLING DANECRAFT BRACELET

Great mid 20th century design, sterling bracelet by Danecraft with safety chain; about 7-3/4" long; marked: "DANECRAFT, ®, STERLING;" fine condition.

Large, highly textured, handmade Israeli cuff; sterling with what I believe are amber cabochons; quite light and flexible (I believe it is electroformed); 3-1/4" wide at the front; inside diameter approximately 2-1/2"; bracelet has a small opening, but is quite flexible; marked "ISRAEL, 925, and illegible maker's mark; fine condition.

 SOLD (item #M647)

Strikingly modern, sterling necklace (neckring and pendants) by Puig Doria, Spain; probably ca. 1970s; neckring is slightly over 14" around and has an inside diameter of approximately 4-1/2"; pendants hang down about 6" (this piece fits a small neck) marked: "PUIG DORIA, 925, MADE IN SPAIN;" fine condition.

$1,200.00  (item #M915)

Sterling ring by Spanish designer Puig Doria; great sleek architectural style, reminiscent of Hans Hansen designs; about size 4-1/2--has a little give because of the design; marked: "MADE IN SPAIN, PUIG DORIA, 925;" some light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

SOLD (item #M920)

Great design sterling mid-20th century earrings with black branch coral; approximately 1-5/8" x 1/4"; marked: "STERLING;" great patina; screwbacks; some very light surface wear, otherwise fine condition.

$215.00 (item #KH-M0368)

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